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2012 Ferrer Bobet Selecció Especial Priorat

Catalonia, Spain An exquisite varietal that time almost forgot

Catalonia, Spain
An exquisite varietal that time almost forgot.

Even though it ranks highly among oenophiles for its mighty and complex taste, Priorat wine is rarely on restaurant menus—Rioja usually dominates the Spanish selections. That’s why Ferrer Bobet’s 2012 Selecció Especial, made with 100 percent carignan from century-old vines, piqued my interest recently. Until the 1990s, Priorat was a virtually forgotten wine region in Catalonia whose stony soil and blistering days followed by cool nights made it a harsh environment for most grape varieties. The local carignan, however, thrives in the climate. There’s been a renaissance in Priorat over the last 25 years, and Ferrer Bobet excels at bringing out flavor from this grape. The winery is located on some of the steepest, highest and coolest parts of Catalonia, which allows for a measured ripening and excellent acidity, and grapes are handpicked and sorted, excluding the use of herbicides, insecticides or fungicides. The result of Ferrer Bobet’s meticulous process and use of ancient vines is a balanced, oaky red with a minerality that should not be missing from your dinner table this winter.

$105, Alex Michas, amichas@vintuswines.com, vintuswines.com; ferrerbobet.com

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