Executive Travel
Serenissimo
Scott Haas
07/01/2004

La Serenissimo, or “the most serene,” is the sobriquet accorded Venice throughout the centuries to describe the sublime effect of its light, water and architecture on the senses. But as each new generation discovers the beauty of Venice, these serene moments become more elusive. The city’s most desirable hotels are located either on Lido, an island 30 minutes from the city center, or within walking distance of crowded Piazza San Marco, where disheveled tourists rush about, leaving us feeling as if we missed serenissimo by at least a century.

HOTEL CIPRIANI guests can take the hotel’s launches for a short trip to  Piazza San Marco and other sites.
This is perhaps why, for nearly 50 years, its patrons have regarded the Hotel Cipriani with reverence and loyalty. Resting on an enclosed refuge on the island of Giudecca—a quick, watery jaunt from Piazza San Marco—Cipriani delivers us to Venice, rather than separating us from it.

We are whisked across the Grand Canal, past vapporetti (water buses), gondolas and other watercraft, on one of the hotel’s private launches, which are always available for the short commute to Piazza San Marco. On the boat, as elsewhere, guests are accorded the singular devotion once reserved for the doges who ruled the city.

Within the walled property, serenissimo seems to float on the air. The atmosphere is quiet, but not hushed, more a meditation garden than a chapel. Eighteenth-century romantic Casanova, in fact, frequented the gardens that now make up the Cipriani property, today an enticing blend of vineyards, flowers, statuary and splendid views—the Piazza San Marco and the island of San Giorgio Maggiore dot the horizon.


Cipriani’s doors first opened in 1958 after Giuseppi Cipriani recruited investors, including the daughters of the Earl of Iveagh (scion of the Guinness brewing family). Already famous as the owner of Harry’s Bar—a watering hole near Piazza San Marco where Hemingway and other notables drank the first Bellinis—Cipriani brought distinction to the hotel, along with a clear sense of what it takes to run an exceptional property catering to an exceptional clientele.

HOTEL CIPRIANI offers magnificent views, a private marina for guests’ yachts and the only Olympic-size swimming pool in Venice.
Cipriani’s vision informed the hotel’s style until 1976, when it was purchased by its current owner, Orient-Express Hotels. The new management invested $100 million in modernizing the property by enlarging the rooms, renovating the dining areas and acquiring the nearby 15th century Palazzo Vendramin for additional guest rooms. Designed by Gerard Gallet, the restoration preserved the integrity of the architecture, while updating the comfort factor to first-class levels. With a ratio of one staff member per guest, the standards of service are indeed premium.

Tutti Italiano
Cipriani’s 103 rooms and suites are divided among three buildings: the main structure, the Palazzo Vendramin and the attached Palazzetto. Guests staying at the Palazzo and the Palazzetto enjoy the additional services of a personal butler. Italian through and through, Cipriani pays homage to the materials and craftsmanship for which Venice is famous, especially silks and Murano glass. All rooms are dressed in brocaded draperies, plush carpeting, hand-painted furnishings and splendid views of the canals and city.


The hotel’s premiere suite is the Palladio, which offers a 180-degree view of the Venetian lagoon through floor-to-ceiling windows. It is fitted with Murano glass lampshades and mirrors, original Venetian paintings and marble floors. A dining area allows guests to host small dinner parties. With the push of a button, guests can summon a projection screen, which descends from the ceiling to transform the living room into a private cinema. Its three bathrooms are crafted from Carrara and Verona marble. The suite also has a private garden, wooden terrace and outdoor heated Jacuzzi.

Cipriani offers several dining options. The Cipriani Restaurant is a formal confection of arches and white linen in which men are required to wear jacket and tie and children are welcomed only between 7:30 and 8:30 pm. Chef Renato Piccolotto, a Verona native, who specializes in Venetian cuisine using local mollusks and fish, oversees the kitchen. The concierge will arrange for guests to accompany Piccolotto to the Rialto market early in the day as he shops for fresh fish and produce to prepare the day’s meals. Every October, Piccolotto runs an exclusive cooking school for guests.

The Terrace Restaurant, which serves lunch and dinner, is a romantic spot overlooking the lagoon. Finally, on the ground floor of the Palazzetto, is Cip’s Club, a casual restaurant with views across the lagoon to Piazza San Marco. In addition to grilled dishes and pizza, Cip’s features a dolci bar for ice cream and pastries. The rather informal Poolside Restaurant is open for lunch.

The amenities at Cipriani are extensive. In addition to its private boats and butlers, the property includes a health club, steam bath, sauna, boutique and hair salon. A variety of massage treatments can be arranged. It is home to Venice’s only tennis court and Olympic-size swimming pool. The property’s private marina can accommodate boats up to 70 feet, an attractive amenity for guests who arrive on personal yachts.


Cipriani’s concierges can help us delve into Venice’s less accessible treasures, arranging bespoke excursions to Burano, Murano, Torcello and other islands in the lagoon. They can arrange tours of art galleries and museums, visits to private palaces and reservations in elite restaurants in a city overrun with tourist-grade eateries.

Cipriani has long enjoyed the patronage of royalty and celebrities. For the past six decades, Venice has hosted the famous Venice Film Festival, a September event attended by members of the international film community. Cipriani is busiest during the festival; 80 percent of the hotel’s guests during this period are repeat visitors.

Events are a specialty at Cipriani—be they business or pleasure, modest or extravagant. Three interconnecting 19th century buildings—the so-called Granaries of the Republic—are available for weddings, birthdays and meetings. Elton John celebrated his birthday here last year, and The World—the floating resort with no home—was christened here.

Despite the tourist hordes, Venice does remain the world’s most serene city—if you book the right address. 

Hotel Cipriani, Venice, Italy
39.041.520.7744
www.hotelcipriani.com
(Hotel Cipriani is closed during winter months.)