Executive Travel
Scottish Retreat, American Style
James Y. Bartlett
12/01/2003

Golf, for many of us, is the quintessential retreat. On the greens and fairways, far removed from the boardroom, we are in our zone: The balance and poise of our address, the path of our swing and the Zen-like intricacies of a snaking putt unite to give us that unconquerable sense of purpose, unfailing control, and trenchant insight. Though this euphoric state seldom lingers past the home green, while it lasts, we know nirvana—or imagine we do. The power of the game to trans port and rejuvenate is the secret salve of the weary CEO—a secret we would do well to occasionally share with our key executives.

Inviting one’s inner circle to a retreat is a time-honored method for recognizing their individual value to the company, while at the same time enhancing that value by building stronger bonds, better communication and new, more creative modes of thinking. And if a few well-placed rounds of golf can assist in accomplishing all of this, a few rounds at the ancestral "Home of Golf," St. Andrews, Scotland, should transform your top team entirely.

Whereas in the past its rugged, windy conditions might have crippled our game, and its drafty local lodges might have chilled our bones, an American-style resort recently built in St. Andrews allows us to share a pinnacle golf experience with our executives without undue risk to the company’s human capital. St. Andrews Bay Golf Resort & Spa, a full-service resort hotel and conference center on the outskirts of St. Andrews, hits the mark in terms of modern conference facilities, while offering two golf courses of its own and, through the intervention of concierge, occasional reservations for tee times at the legendary Old Course.


The resort is the brainchild of American Don Panoz, the founder of Elan Pharmaceuticals (pioneer of, among other things, the transdermal nicotine patch). In recent years, Panoz has brought to four the number of hotels in his upscale Chateau Elan resorts marque, whose other properties are in Georgia, Florida, and California.

Panoz’s genius in bringing his resort and spa to St. Andrews lies in his understanding of the reasons why American tourists love to visit Scotland—and those of us who prefer the comforts of home do not. The town, with its Old Course dating back at least as far as the 1500s, is rich in history and appeal to golf pilgrims, but luxury accommodations have long been lacking. Save for the deluxe, but small, Old Course Hotel, which sits at the strategic dogleg corner of the infamous Road Hole 17th, most of the hotels, inns, and B&Bs require something of an adjustment for those of us who expect data ports, working telephones, and private baths.

While tourists will gladly suffer some degree of inconvenience in the name of authenticity, some of us are unwilling to compromise—especially when planning a retreat designed to energize and renew. The golf must be great, but so must the meeting facilities, the technology, the guest rooms, the food, the wine, and the service. Needless to say, private baths are not negotiable.

Panoz understands: His St. Andrews Bay has filled this void spectacularly. The 209 American-sized guest rooms are well appointed with special attention paid to bathroom amenities: heated marble floors and walk-in showers. In addition to the latest technological connections, guest rooms and suites feature dual electrical systems for those U.S. visitors who do not normally travel with foreign electrical adapters. In another nod to its U.S. guests, St. Andrews Bay maintains a small fleet of golf carts—rare in Scotland and referred to (a tad condescendingly) as "buggies." They can be hired for the Torrance course, but the Devlin track, like most courses in Scotland, is walking only, although trollies (pull carts) are available.


Despite its modern amenities, the resort, which opened for business in 2001, was designed to occupy its historic Scottish setting faithfully. The U-shaped property sits atop 520 rugged acres overlooking the North Sea and long stretches of its golden beaches. To the southeast are views of St. Andrews’ ancient, spired skyline. Despite the newness of the resort, the two golf courses look as if they have been there for 100 years—as they were designed to look.

The resort’s meeting facilities—among the best in Scotland—are equally suited to a large assembly or a small cadre of associates. The 10,000-square-foot conference center includes a ballroom and banquet hall, a presentation theater, 10 break-out rooms, and a full array of A/V equipment.

Those of us who wish to be isolated from the bustle of the hotel can book one of the manor homes located near the fourth fairway of the Torrance course. The modern, open floor plans are well suited to group activities, and each house contains a fully equipped office with data and fax connections. With four bedrooms, five baths, a country kitchen, and a large living room, each manor can easily host intimate gatherings.

The Scots, who have been playing the game for more than 600 years, say one can learn a great deal about a man’s character over the course of 18 holes.
While golf is the area’s trademark activity, St. Andrews Bay and its surrounds offer myriad recreational options, top among them walking on the blustery beach and exploring the ghostly medieval ruins of nearby St. Andrews Castle and Cathedral. Boating and fishing also beckon. And having made the trip across the pond, one might want to venture into Edinburgh, 50 miles to the south, or Glasgow, 90 miles southeast.

If maintaining a daily fitness regimen is called for, guests need not leave the grounds. A complete, free-standing fitness center offers the latest exercise equipment, as well as a 59-foot heated indoor pool, sauna, and Jacuzzi tubs. And like all of Panoz’s properties, St. Andrews Bay features a full-service Chateau Elan spa.

Dining opportunities abound. The Clubhouse sits on the dramatic headlands, overlooking the crashing surf of the North Sea, the 36 holes of golf, and even the gray spires and turrets of St. Andrews, some three miles away. Kinnock’s Den, in the hotel, offers fresh seafood specials and the excellent Loch Fyne smoked salmon, as well as fine Angus beef and fresh produce from the surrounding farms. The bar in Kinnock’s Den provides the requisite fine Scottish single malts and is kept open "as long as the last man is standing."


For those who venture away from St. Andrews Bay, there are world-class restaurants in and around the town. David Wilson’s Peat Inn, located at a tiny crossroads some seven miles from St. Andrews, annually wins rosettes and stars from European gourmands. A branch of the famed Seafood Restaurant from nearby St. Monans recently opened on the seafront in St. Andrews, and the modern, glass-walled room has proved hugely popular. Just down the A-917 trunk road, in the village of Anstruther, the Cellar has achieved renown as one of Scotland’s premiere seafood restaurants.

And when all other possible activities have been exhausted, of course, there is golf. On the courses of St. Andrews, we can test our characters, form and reform alliances, and cement relationships. The Scots, who have been playing the game for more than 600 years, say one can learn a great deal about a man’s character over the course of 18 holes.

St. Andrews Bay encompasses two golf courses that look as though they were laid out by Old Tom Morris a century ago. Built on the rugged headlands overlooking the sea, cut by a deep ravine, and surrounded by the usual bits of gorse, heather, and tall marram, the courses give American golfers the true Scottish experience. Both the Torrance and Devlin courses are treeless, open to the gusting winds, with all the bumpy, rolling fairways and ball-collecting bunkers that make Scottish golf so unfair, and so enthralling.

Native son Sam Torrance, a one-time Ryder Cup captain, laid out his course on a former potato farm. Some of his greens are protected by devilish "wee burns" or creeks, while others are surrounded by stone walls, another Scottish characteristic. The Bruce Devlin-designed course opens with some wide-open holes that favor big hitters. However, it soon moves across the deep Kinnock’s Den ravine to a windswept plateau high above the sea, and control and strategy become far more important than length.
Being an international center of golf, St. Andrews boasts numerous courses, but most of us have our hearts set on the famed Old Course, which begins and ends at the edge of town. Unfortunately, while nominally a public course, tee times are at a premium. Huge blocks of tee times are sold to tour operators and local organizations, but a certain percentage is held out each day for distribution through The Ballot, a computerized hat into which hopeful golfers toss their names. The names of the next day’s lucky winners are posted all around town by 2:30 each afternoon.


The Links Trust, which operates the Old Course, maintains five other, far more accessible courses. In addition, golfers can play the Dukes course, built in the last decade by Australian Peter Thomson, or the new Kingsbarns links, just down the road from St. Andrews Bay.

This is another American-financed and designed project that has introduced the concept of "upscale, daily-fee" golf to Scotland. Kingsbarns is a modern links-style course that perfectly captures the flavor and feel of old-style Scottish golf, and the views from almost every hole are stunning. At the end of the round, the modern clubhouse provides the perfect place for those old American post-round standbys: a cheeseburger and cold beer.

The choices are almost endless for truly authentic links golf: the tough links at Carnoustie are just a half hour away across the Firth of Tay, and the scenic, recently updated Balcomie links of the Crail Golf Club, and the Open qualifying courses of Elie and Lundin links are short drives.

For a golf-centric executive retreat that renews the spirit, comforts the body, and reveals the character, few places possess more character, finer comforts, or more lively spirit than St. Andrews Bay.

St. Andrews Bay Golf Resort & Spa
+44.0.1334.837000
www.standrewsbay.com