Anthony Giglio
07/01/2004
When Red Cat owners Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abrams opened their second restaurant, the Harrison, in October 2001, they again proved that their synergistic combination of bold, seasonally inspired cooking, gracious service and thoughtful decor was exactly in tune with what this corner of Tribeca needed: casual elegance.
Located at 355 Greenwich Street, the Harrison sits squarely in the heart of one of the most upwardly mobile family neighborhoods in Manhattan, as well as near hundreds of businesses in the financial district, a 10-minute walk to the south. The decor, however, could not be further from Wall Street, as architect and designer Mark Zeff melds design elements from Bradley’s New England heritage and Tribeca’s sleek industrial backdrop, cleverly combining natural wood, cold-rolled steel, leather and antiques to create a cozy, yet urbane, environment.
Zeff’s theme continues in the cellar—a rarity in
Manhattan—where he created a secluded private dining room in the wine cave. The
focal point of the beautiful, plank-walled room is a rustic farmhouse table that
seats up to 20 guests, though it also could be split for smaller parties. There
is room enough to host a stand-up cocktail party with the table as a magnificent
buffet—no linens required. Walls lined with dark chestnut, recessed wine racks
and works by American pop artist Robert Rauschenberg give the room the feel of
an intimate gallery.Whatever the function, you can expect to be impressed on all fronts. “We are focused on these fundamentals: how guests are received, the way they’re made to feel, how they’re served and what they are offered,” says chef and partner Jimmy Bradley on the secret of the Harrison’s success. Critical to that success is the team that enables Bradley and Abrams to set their signature tone: general manager Tim Rucker oversees the wait staff; beverage manager Paul Masters keeps tabs on drinks; and in the kitchen, Bradley collaborates with executive chef Joseph Campanaro, 32, a culinary soul mate who shares his passion for natural, lusty flavors and the sensibility of their shared Italian heritage.
Dinner in the private dining room ranges in price
from a three-course menu (comprised of starter, two main course choices and
dessert) for $75, all the way up to a six-course tasting menu for $100. Passed
hors d’oeuvres, which are included, began one night with crostini slathered with
a thyme-onion confit and a perfectly seared cube of foie gras. Bocadillos made
of Jamon Serrano and Manchego gave new meaning to the ham-and-cheese sandwich.
Pan-roasted sardine fillets sat atop a cold salad of cauliflower and snap peas
with a delicately fiery chili-lime vinaigrette.
First courses included a
chilled lobster salad dressed in lemon juice, olive oil and sea salt. Sweet ahi
tuna tartare on won tons was daubed with a wasabi paste flecked with tobiko (fly
fish roe). Chubby crab cakes came with an exquisite horseradish remoulade. Fried
clams were paired with a lemon-coriander aioli. Cuttlefish were bathed in a
citrus marinade and salsa fresca. Spinach tagliatelle with chanterelles,
pecorino and truffled mushroom broth was amazing.
Main courses included “The
Pork Chop,” a formidable pan-seared rib chop topped with parmesan-spiked butter
and wild dandelion greens. A pan-roasted tilefish arrived with ravioli stuffed
with herbed seafood and crème fraîche, along with bitter rapini greens and briny
lobster broth. Halibut in a potato jacket was paired with braised fennel,
haricot verts, cockles and a lemon-chorizo broth. Radicchio, pancetta and a
balsamic glaze complemented the prime New York shell steak.
Vegetables—served
family style—included a sauté of watercress with roasted corn, basil and fava
beans, and braised bitter greens with lemon, chili and garlic. Both were
fantastic.
Desserts featured warm wild berry cafloutis with crème fraîche and
chocolate ice cream, key lime meringue pie with a citrus-thyme zabaglione bath,
and an amazing chocolate trio of Valrhona mousse cake, pudding filling and
creamy gelato. Of course, in lieu of dessert, you could opt for a formal cheese
course, and take further advantage of the Harrison’s award-winning 200-label
wine list.
The Harrison
212.274.9310
www.theharrison.com