Aline Sullivan
06/01/2004
The Homestead Inn has contributed much to the development of Greenwich, Conn., both in preserving its New England heritage and in keeping it on the cutting edge of great places to live. Behind the inn’s historic white clapboards, a vibrant decor unfolds that blends a European sensibility with an American freshness and a touch of Asian intrigue. English textiles and American solid cherry furniture artfully mix with pieces from China, Bali and India. The cuisine, however, is decidedly French.
For the locals and for an increasing
number of Manhattanites, this is the place to see, dine and be seen. Or, for
guests in the Chestnut Room, one of two private dining rooms at Thomas
Henkelmann, the inn’s award-winning restaurant, it is a place to dine and not be
seen. The room is not entirely private, but when privacy is desired, a screen
can be placed at the room’s entrance, effectively blocking the view.A side entrance allows diners to enter the Chestnut Room incognito by passing through the herb gardens and in through a set of French doors adjacent to the room. (You will have to brave the main dining room or entrance to the inn to access the restrooms.) Once ensconced, however, diners enjoy complete privacy.
Privacy
has its place in Greenwich, home to one of the largest concentrations of hedge
funds in the world, as well as an increasing number of bankers, lawyers and
other executives who work locally. Long famous as one of the wealthiest suburbs
in the United States, Greenwich is also now a commuting destination, and home to
a fair number of celebrities, such as Mel Gibson, who work as and when they
choose. 
Theresa Henkelmann and her husband, Thomas, who is the chef of
the restaurant that bears his name, own the two properties. The restaurant is
Thomas’ first taste of ownership after a career that began in his German home in
the Black Forest and included the Auberge de l’Ill in Alsace and Auberge in
Munich, both of which have three Michelin stars. He was then the head chef of
Maurice at Le Parker Meridien in New York. Theresa describes her husband’s
American debut in 1989 as he attempted to manage the staff knowing hardly a word
of English: “He just kept repeating the only phrase he knew—the one from the
Nike ad—Just do it.”
He has since picked up the language but has stayed true
to his European roots in his cuisine, which was awarded four Mobil Stars in
2000. The food relies on regional American products but is really French, with
dishes such as Hudson duck pâté, Maryland crab cakes with a tomato fondue and
remoulade sauce and Maine lobster with an Andalouse sauce. It is rich and
satisfying, but not heavy.
With its exposed brick and beams and a mural that
depicts an idyllic Provençal village (the artist has painted in Thomas and
Theresa among the villagers; look to the lower left corner), the Chestnut Room
is more rustic than the elegant main dining rooms. Indeed, the room may be a bit
too rustic for some tastes and possibly too dim on a beautiful day. But the
wine-cellar feel will suit many others just fine, especially those who want to
sample some of the restaurant’s 800-plus labels, and hosts looking for an
intimate room. (Fourteen is the maximum, but the minimum of 10 would be much
more comfortable.)
The Chestnut Room should be booked weeks, even months, in
advance. Hosts are asked to select two appetizers, two entrées, a cheese course
if they wish and two desserts. A menu will then be printed for the occasion and
a sommelier will assist at the table. Lunch costs about $45 to $55 a person and
dinner $65 to $75, excluding wine and other drinks.
The Chestnut Room, Thomas Henkelmann
Homestead Inn
203.869.7500
www.homesteadinn.com