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| Dining Incognito |
The Chestnut Room
Aline Sullivan
06/01/2004
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He has since picked up the language but has stayed true
to his European roots in his cuisine, which was awarded four Mobil Stars in
2000. The food relies on regional American products but is really French, with
dishes such as Hudson duck pâté, Maryland crab cakes with a tomato fondue and
remoulade sauce and Maine lobster with an Andalouse sauce. It is rich and
satisfying, but not heavy.
With its exposed brick and beams and a mural that
depicts an idyllic Provençal village (the artist has painted in Thomas and
Theresa among the villagers; look to the lower left corner), the Chestnut Room
is more rustic than the elegant main dining rooms. Indeed, the room may be a bit
too rustic for some tastes and possibly too dim on a beautiful day. But the
wine-cellar feel will suit many others just fine, especially those who want to
sample some of the restaurant’s 800-plus labels, and hosts looking for an
intimate room. (Fourteen is the maximum, but the minimum of 10 would be much
more comfortable.)
The Chestnut Room should be booked weeks, even months, in
advance. Hosts are asked to select two appetizers, two entrées, a cheese course
if they wish and two desserts. A menu will then be printed for the occasion and
a sommelier will assist at the table. Lunch costs about $45 to $55 a person and
dinner $65 to $75, excluding wine and other drinks.
The Chestnut Room, Thomas Henkelmann
Homestead Inn
203.869.7500
www.homesteadinn.com
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