Thanks to Rockefeller’s decision to hold firm, the historic building, now surrounded by skyscrapers, survived to become home to Citarella, one of New York’s most talked-about restaurants.

Affiliated with New York’s Citarella fish and gourmet markets, it is not surprising that Citarella The Restaurant, as it is properly called, focuses on seafood, which is also reflected in the decor. The building’s charming 19th century exterior gives way to an interior with a contemporary nautical theme. At the entrance, an elevator will whisk you to your private room occupying the entire fourth floor, where the sea theme continues. The room, with its brown and gold silk-padded walls that call to mind the scales of fish, is a warm respite from the din of the city. Designed with the business diner in mind, the room is fitted to function as a virtual boardroom. Cleverly concealed behind a door in the dining room’s back wall is a large flat-screen television with presentation and teleconferencing capabilities. The room is suitable for private dining parties of 55 people as well as stand-up receptions of up to 100. If requested, the management will arrange for live music as well. 

Executive Chef Brian Bistrong takes a light approach to his contemporary American cooking, extracting the food’s full flavor using meat reductions and broth instead of butter or cream. For texture and flair without a lot of fat, he often tops off his simple and clean presentations with a touch of exotic salad. The black cod perhaps best exemplifies the important role Japanese cuisine plays in his signature style. Marinated in soy, marin and sake sauce, then glazed with miso paste and broiled, the cod is served with a crunchy crust and a flaky center. What makes this dish particularly delightful is the pool of onion broth in which the cod rests. Made with five types of onion, along with bok choy and shrimp dumplings, the broth harmoniously ties all the ingredients together in a blend of sweet and salty flavors.