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| Dining Incognito |
Arnaud's
Jessica Taylor
02/02/2004
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Following his death in 1948, the Count’s daughter, Germaine (who had the distinction of being crowned Mardi Gras queen more times than anyone else in New Orleans’ history), took over the reins of her father’s enterprise. Under her control, Arnaud’s continued its success, but decades of neglect eventually took their toll. Archie Casbarian, a respected hotelier, approached the Count’s daughter in 1978 with a proposal to purchase. Casbarian’s striking resemblance to her father (they even shared the same initials) and a promise to restore Arnaud’s to its original grandeur prompted the aging Mardi Gras queen to sell. After the expenditure of meticulous attention and more than $3 million, Arnaud’s stands once again as the grand dame of New Orleans, authentic down to its Creole menu.
"Eighty percent of the menu is original," says Casbarian. "However, we update the menu every three months with lighter versions of Creole recipes." A signature indulgence from yesteryear is the crisply fried speckled trout nestled in a pool of meunière sauce, made of veal stock, butter, lemon, pepper and herbs. Another old favorite is the eponymous Shrimp Arnaud, a piquant rémoulade served over fresh shrimp. Oysters are another specialty and the stuff of epicurean obsession, served either in bowls of steaming soup or baked in five distinct styles. For purists, these succulent mollusks are also available freshly shucked on the half shell. Postprandial pleasures include premium cigars, rare ports and single malt Scotches, though legend has it that yet another spirit may materialize at your table along with the cordials: that of Count Arnaud himself. Pricing varies depending on the size of one’s party and the dining room of choice.
Arnaud’s
813 Rue Bienville, New Orleans
866.230.8895, www.arnauds.com
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