Law
Breaking a Sweatshop
Philip M. Berkowitz
05/03/2004

Not long ago, Nike and its much admired sportswear products were described in the New York Times as being “synonymous with slave wages, forced overtime and arbitrary abuse.” The speaker was not a labor activist or a politician hoping to grab headlines. Rather, it was Nike’s own chairman and chief executive, Philip H. Knight, who was forced to acknowledge that his company’s overseas labor problems were having a serious negative impact on its stock price and sales. Promising to end the use of child labor by Nike’s overseas manufacturers, Knight also said, “I truly believe that the American consumer does not want to buy products made in abusive conditions.”

Knight was right. In this era of instant media attention, companies doing business overseas must ensure that their labor practices—even those of their suppliers and contractors—are simply above reproach.

There are many sources of legal liability for our overseas labor practices. Trade agreements such as the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) seek to impose minimum international labor standards. Organized labor and human rights groups have used NAFTA’s labor side-agreement to target sweatshop conditions, as well as discriminatory employment practices, allegedly carried out in Mexico. Recently, federal laws against indentured servitude were invoked in a lawsuit filed against a number of textile companies for their employment practices in Saipan, a U.S. territory in the Northern Mariana Islands.


Whiter than White
How can a multinational company avoid becoming a target? First, commit to carrying out employment practices that meet and exceed internationally recognized guidelines.  Numerous international organizations have identified core labor standards. Chief among these are the International Labour Organization (ILO), a United Nations affiliate, which has adopted a Declaration of Principles. Other well-known statements of principle include the Global Sullivan Principles of Social Responsibility, the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises and the Global Compact, adopted in July 2000 by the United Nations.

These codes of conduct all identify similar basic principles, including: the right to bargain collectively; equal employment opportunity and nondiscrimination; prohibitions against child labor and forced labor; adherence to local safe workplace laws (or, if these do not suffice, adopting best practices); consulting with workers’ groups about layoffs and similar adverse actions; grievance or dispute resolution procedures; and use of internal or external monitors to audit employment practices.

These statements of principle are not binding on international companies. Rather, they are guidelines. Nevertheless, companies ignore them at their own peril. Of course, companies doing business overseas also need to familiarize themselves with the binding labor laws of the countries in which they are doing business. Many countries’ labor laws and labor tribunals recognize substantial employee rights regarding unfair dismissal and other employment practices.


The following is a blueprint for best practices:

•  Adopt practices embracing core labor standards. Multinationals are increasingly recognizing that these standards are consistent with their corporate codes of conduct.

• Implement procedures to reasonably ensure that policies are translated into fair employment practices. These steps include developing labor audit procedures, including detailed questionnaires for overseas partners.  

• Make sure that your partner is committed to your goals. Create a confidential communications channel to handle complaints from your contractors’ employees. No facility is perfect; there is never total compliance. But rather than walking away from difficult situations, a responsible multinational will try to work with its local contractor and help the workers. If the company leaves when it finds a problem, the employees may be out of a job.

• Engage as many auditors as are necessary to assure that quality standards are met.  Issues such as the facility’s prior history, reputation, housing for workers, size and location are factors that independent monitoring companies usually consider. Pre-production surprise audits are most effective.

Exporting labor overseas carries substantial responsibility as well as risk. It also gives multinationals the unique opportunity to showcase, on an international stage, their essential, core values. Exporting socially responsible values is the key to success for the 21st century multinational.

Philip M. Berkowitz practices labor and employment law on behalf of employers in New York City and is a frequent lecturer on employment law.