Burch sought to recruit a president during her first year in business, initially approaching DKNY’s Mary Wang. But in March 2005, after Wang had opted to stay with Donna Karan, Burch hired Brigitte Kleine, former president of the women’s collection at Michael Kors. Kleine helped Burch assemble a five-person design team and manage growth. Kleine says she took the leap from an established firm to a start-up because she saw real potential in Burch and her brand. "She had been known for the tunic, but I was also impressed when I saw the breadth of the collection," Kleine says.

By hiring Kleine and building an infrastructure, Burch created a platform for future growth. Her clothes are now sold in some 250 locations across the U.S., as well as at Harvey Nichols in London and Dubai. Burch’s designs debuted at four Bloomingdale’s locations last fall and were among the best sellers in their department, according to Frank Doroff, senior executive vice president of ready-to-wear. Kleine says the brand has sell-throughs (the amount of merchandise sold at full price) of 60 percent and higher in an industry where anything better than 50 percent is considered good. Burch owns six freestanding stores and expects to open three each year over the next five years. She now produces everything from swimwear and candles to shoes. Last year, she sold 90,000 pairs of $195 ballet flats, adorned with her logo, within three months of their launch.