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Restaurants
Gastronomic Proportions
Stewart Kampel
07/01/2004


That elicits smiles from investors such as Will Montero, who took a liking to Mills when he worked in bars in Boston 10 years ago. Montero, who had professional restaurant training at Johnson and Wales College, asked early on to see Mills’ business plan for the Biltmore Room. “There’s something about Jeff,” Montero explains. “I normally wouldn’t have done it, but I gave him $35,000. I keep an eye on the books. Typically I’d expect a return in a year and a half. I think my return will be triple what I thought it would be.”
Yet another lesson for would-be restaurateurs: each deal is unique. As Nieporent forged his success, De Niro, a Montrachet fan who owned property in Tribeca, came to him with an idea for the Tribeca Grill. But Nieporent and his group had to raise $2 million and agree to a deal that called for a portion of the investment to be returned before profits. Nieporent went in for sweat equity plus salary. “We projected a return in five years,” he recalls. “Actually, we returned the money in two years.” The largest investment came in units of $200,000 from investors such as Bill Murray and Sean Penn.

An investor with the capital and the patience must also pass a credit assessment and an ethics check. In states such as New York, every investor must be listed on an application for a liquor license and be fingerprinted to rule out a criminal background. (The government can bar an investor.)

Strategy, of course, is crucial. When Himmel was flush with the success of his Grill 23 & Bar in Boston in 1983, he sought to capitalize on his winning formula and carry high-end food to the suburbs. He failed. “We didn’t belong there,” he says. “There was too much competition, and people didn’t want that kind of a check.”

In 2003, however, the well-seasoned Himmel opened the Excelsior restaurant with the grand duchess of Boston chefs, Lydia Shire, in the kitchen. It was designed by the much-lauded Adam Tihany and had a budget of $2.25 million. Finding investors proved easy. “I had a list of 10 investors to go to,” he says. Among them were friends of his neighbor in Marblehead, Mass., Peter Lynch. “The first three put up $750,000 each, and I put up an equal share.” That was it. Excelsior was lauded from Burbank to the Back Bay as Boston’s best new restaurant in 2003. 
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