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Dining Icognito
Marinus at Bernardus Lodge
Debra Ryono
02/01/2005

Tucked into California's picturesque Carmel Valley, a dozen or so miles from the golf courses of Pebble Beach, rests Bernardus Lodge, a 57-room hillside retreat and spa, and the home of Marinus, a French restaurant that offers a number of private dining venues.

The most secluded is the chef’s table in the kitchen, which provides privacy from the public while securing the full attention of the staff. Perched on a raised platform, the U-shaped booth seats up to five. The cinnamon-colored walls of the booth’s alcove are covered in heartwarming graffiti from past diners, including chef Julia Child and celebrities Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell. Each handwritten note extols the virtues of chef Cal Stamenov, accolades that are well deserved.

The chef’s tasting menu is the diner’s best bet. The experience starts with a brief visit from the chef or chef de cuisine to assess food preferences, and to decide on the number of courses—usually between six and 10. Champagne, bread and gougère, an hors d’oeuvre pastry, open the meal. From their vantage point, guests can watch the unceasing activities of the 30-member kitchen staff. As the meal progresses, Stamenov or the chef de cuisine stops by the table with each course to explain the culinary creations. And with every dish, wine director Mark Jensen pours a complementary glass, explaining the nuances of each.

Truffles are a dominant theme in Stamenov’s creations. (The chef hosts an annual truffle dinner for $475 per person.) The white truffle risotto with Parmesan reggiano foam is exceptional. Seared Kobe beef is served with béarnaise sauce and herb salad, and duck may come with grilled porcini, spinach and a cabernet-shallot reduction. “We try to get three tastes in each dish: meat, sauce and vegetable,” explains the somewhat-shy chef.

The Bernardus winery opened in 1990, predating the 5-year-old Bernardus Lodge; both were founded by Dutch racecar driver Bernardus “Ben” Pon. Among the Bernardus wines featured at Marinus is a 2002 Ingrid’s Vineyard Chardonnay. Ingrid’s Vineyard, at the entrance to the lodge, is named after Pon’s wife, and the 2002 vintage is from the first harvest. There is no shortage of boutique wines, however, for those who prefer something different. Marinus carries 35,000 bottles with 1,850 different labels. The wine list is divided into varietals from around the world, from Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington state to a 1982 Pauillac from Chateau Mouton Rothschild. An extensive selection of Montrachet is also available.

For those who would eschew the frenetic pace of the kitchen or who have a larger number of guests, Marinus offers three other private dining experiences. The secluded, candlelit wine cellar seats up to eight guests, while a large round table that can seat as many as 12 is located in its own small room. For larger groups, the Harvest Room, in a separate building, handles as many as 50 guests, and has its own kitchen and outside patio.

The tasting menu at the chef’s table starts at $250 per person, with final cost based on wine selection. 

Marinus, Bernardus Lodge
831.658.3595
www.bernardus.com
 

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