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Watches
The Value of Time
Thomas Mao, Psy.D.
12/01/2003


From a market liquidity standpoint, one can expand this select group to include Breguet, Rolex, and Cartier. These three easily rival the former brands in terms of liquidity but, from a strict high-horology standpoint, took second tier to the Big Three until the last decade or so.

 Historical considerations. Certain watches have captured the imaginations of collectors as result of their close association with historic events, individuals, or organizations. Examples include the Breguet Type XX, which was originally designed for the French Air Force, and the Rolex Comex models, associated with deep-sea diving.

 Social considerations. The cult of celebrity, like most other aspects of contemporary life, plays its part in horology as well. Gianni Agnelli, the Italian industrialist and style arbiter, established a fashion trend when he wore his Cartier fastened over his shirt cuff.

 Technical DESIGN. Among the most critical considerations from the collector’s perspective, the incorporation into its design of special or high complications—such as the tourbillon, the split-second rattrapante chronograph, the minute repeater or sonnerie—has a dramatic impact on a watch’s desirability.

 Functionality. Added functionality beyond basic timekeeping, but distinguished from high complications—such as that found in chronographs and dive watches, or the purpose-built performance of chronometers, as well as calendar complications—these petite complications can affect a piece’s collectibility, though usually to a lesser degree than the high complications.

 Aesthetics. Overall design can profoundly influence long-term value. Examples of design-driven classics include the Patek Philippe asymmetrical models and the Cartier Crash watch.

 Rarity. This valuation factor comes in two varieties: absolute and relative. Absolute rarity generally requires that the total number of watches extant be fewer than 100, preferably fewer than 10. Relative rarity is dependent on the relative relationship of demand and supply with respect to a particular model. The Audemars Piguet End of Days Royal Oak Offshore, for instance, was a limited edition of 500; yet it is very hard to find today, and generally sells at well over the original suggested retail price of $13,600.

 Condition and completeness. For collectors, the original box, manuals and other papers are important considerations in the collectibility of any specific piece.

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