“Be daring and
have a little fun,” advises Kimberly McDonald.
“A
comprehensive jewelry collection will offer
diversity in scope and
illustrate that the client
has a sophisticated approach to her jewels.” |
While the average luxury consumer is not likely to be familiar with a blue
paraiba tourmaline or an alexandrite that shifts its color from green to red
before one’s eyes, an elite coterie of designers and jewelry curators are ready
to initiate them into the world of exotic and prized gems. These adventurous
designers maintain that these lesser-known jewels offer good value, pointing to
the fact that some of the mines that produce them are either depleted or provide
a restricted supply of stones—a circumstance that makes such gems truly rarified
treasures.Out of Africa
One of greatest pioneers in both discovering and
marketing exotic gems was George Frederick Kunz, who, as Tiffany’s chief
gemologist from 1877 until his death in 1932, searched the world over for the
finest specimens. He was responsible for first bringing obscure gemstones such
as tanzanite and tsavorite from Africa into America. Many of these rare gems
were bestowed upon the Museum of Natural History as part of its permanent
mineral and gem collection, some through Kunz’s patron, J.P. Morgan.
Tiffany’s has kept the Kunz legacy alive and is working to cultivate a
greater interest in collectible gems. Last year, the jeweler began inviting
favored clients to intimate events that showcase the jeweler’s cache of loose
exotic gemstones, along with a series of design concepts. “It’s a unique
opportunity for our best clients to select a gemstone and work with the
Tiffany’s design team to develop a unique creation that suits their style,” says
Melvin Kirtley, group vice president. “It’s our job to expose our customers to
the unique and rare.” Kirtley is particularly keen on the ultra-rare paraiba
tourmaline. “When a client sees the color, the effect is remarkable,” he
notes, adding. “They fall in love.” Tiffany’s recently sold a 13.54-carat
paraiba tourmaline and diamond pendant necklace for $425,000.
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