Eryn Brown
02/01/2005
Nicholas Patin, a Newport Beach, Calif., wine collector, is racing to find the next cult wine that just might take the Napa Valley Wine Auction by five-figure storm. He has been buying fine wine for more than 20 years, and claims he currently owns well in excess of 10,000 bottles, including what he believes to be the world’s largest collection of 9-liter bottles. (He plans to donate them to the Napa Valley auction this year.)
For Patin, the quality of a would-be cult wine is linked to the land on which its grapes are grown—or its terroir. Patin spends some 60 days a year visiting the Napa Valley, examining vineyards for topography (hillsides produce the most concentrated fruit), location (the vineyard must be near other, proven vineyards) and soil content (volcanic deposits produce a different taste in grapes than nearby glacial deposits). Patin frequents charity auctions to scout out what newcomers have arrived to promote their wares, and listens for gossip about who is buying what vineyard, which winemakers they are working with and the background they bring to the winemaking process. “It’s a marriage of many variables,” Patin says. “But if you understand all the factors, it’s not that hard.”Nearly every expert and collector has his own take on what the next cult wine will be, but there are some promising names that experts are betting on. In almost all cases, pedigree—connections to great vineyards and great winemaking operations—is crucial.
Hundred Acre is a cabernet from celebrity winemaker Philippe Melka, who is also the winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyard.
Bond is backed by cult winemaker Bill Harlan.
Hourglass Vineyards makes its Cabernet from grapes planted a stone’s throw from Colgin Cellars, Grace Family Vineyards and the up-and-coming Vineyard 29.
Blankiet Estate specializes in Cabernet blends grown on 15 hillside acres overlooking the Dominus vineyard. The noted husband-and-wife team of Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer run the show. The 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, from the very limited debut production run of 100 cases, is already selling in the neighborhood of $400 to $600 per bottle.
Merus’ Erika Gottl and Mark Herold produce wine in their Napa garage from one- and two-barrel lots collected from some of the Napa Valley’s most venerable vineyards. Robert Parker anointed the wine’s 1994 and 1997 vintages with perfect 100 ratings, two of about a dozen he has given in his career. Melka Wines co-owners Philippe and Cherie Melka combine years of experience working with some of Napa Valley’s best known wineries: Dominus, Hundred Acre, Silver Oak. They, too, gather fine grapes from throughout the valley to create limited production wines.
Melka Wines co-owners Philippe and Cherie Melka combine years of experience working with some of Napa Valley’s best known wineries: Dominus, Hundred Acre, Silver Oak. They, too, gather fine grapes from throughout the valley to create limited production wines.
Lail owner Robin Daniel Lail, who cofounded both Dominus and Merryvale, boasts one of the more impressive family lineages in Napa Valley: Her great-granduncle, Gustav Niebaum, founded Inglenook Vineyards in 1879. Lail is known for its Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, which rated a 93 from Wine Spectator, can be found for around $90 per bottle.
Archery Summit founder Gary Andrus, who also launched Pine Ridge, helped put Northwest wines on the high-end map, producing the first widely released $100 bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir. Andrus retired in 2000, and the team is now led by CEO George Scheppler, formerly of Opus One and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. The 2002 Pinot Noir Arcus Estate runs approximately $75 per bottle.
Photography by Greg Alter/Altered Images Photography.
Back to Main Article: Passion Investments: Wine: Cult Following