Krug Clos du Mesnil 1990 ($450): Perhaps the most exclusive and adulated Champagne on Earth, its chardonnay grapes are harvested from a single 4½-acre walled vineyard in the ancient hamlet of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Though aged for 14 years on the lees, it is surprisingly youthful and vibrant, with lemon and green apples on the nose, a deep flavor of toasted hazelnuts, honey and biscuits, and an everlasting finish. Clos du Mesnil would benefit from some aging to unlock its spectacular charms.

Dom Pérignon 1996 ($120): For a cuvée historically noted for its lacy qualities, the 1996 vintage is unusually forceful and muscular, with a deliciously long finish. Candied lemons, hints of vanilla and toast are ample on the nose. The blend, 52 percent chardonnay and 42 percent pinot noir, is overtly ripe and concentrated with fruit, yet still acidic enough for a satisfying balance. So impacted is the flavor of fruit, it should remain part of this cuvée’s profile for a couple of decades.