Krug Clos du Mesnil 1990 ($450): Perhaps the most exclusive and adulated Champagne on Earth, its chardonnay grapes are harvested from a single 4½-acre walled vineyard in the ancient hamlet of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Though aged for 14 years on the lees, it is surprisingly youthful and vibrant, with lemon and green apples on the nose, a deep flavor of toasted hazelnuts, honey and biscuits, and an everlasting finish. Clos du Mesnil would benefit from some aging to unlock its spectacular charms.

Dom Pérignon 1996 ($120): For a cuvée historically noted for its lacy qualities, the 1996 vintage is unusually forceful and muscular, with a deliciously long finish. Candied lemons, hints of vanilla and toast are ample on the nose. The blend, 52 percent chardonnay and 42 percent pinot noir, is overtly ripe and concentrated with fruit, yet still acidic enough for a satisfying balance. So impacted is the flavor of fruit, it should remain part of this cuvée’s profile for a couple of decades.

Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 1996 ($400): Among the rarest wines in the world (only 3,000 bottles available worldwide and disgorged per customer order) this Champagne is the only Tete du Cuvée crafted completely from Grand Cru pinot noir grapes. It is also the only one made from ancient, ungrafted prephylloxera vines. It has a rich and powerful aroma of orchard fruits, and a mature flavor of vanilla and toast, with an excellent structure and acidity.

Veuve Clicquot Rosé Reserve 1985 ($70): Nearly half of this blend’s exuberant flavor comes from pinot noir grapes. A powerful aroma of wild strawberries is the first hint of the rich, ripe red fruit flavors awaiting the palette. This cuvée boasts excellent complexity, structure and superb finish.

Taittinger Comte de Champagne 1995 ($135): Intense and concentrated yet young, with an abundant nose of fresh apples and pears, this Champagne is full-bodied and creamy with a hint of almond on the lengthy finish.

Louis Roederer Cristal 1996 ($175): Aromas are more sprightly than yeasty. Dried fruits dominate the nose, which yield to a nice balance of acidity and fruit. It should benefit from aging.

Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle La Cuvée NV ($80): A powerhouse of spicy honeysuckle and hazelnuts on the nose, with a flavor of almonds and chalk, this excellent austere cuvée (50-50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir) seems to have plenty of age left in the bottle.

Perrier Jouët Fleur de Champagne Rosé 1997 ($150): A lovely dry rosé with notes of strawberry and currants, and a creamy flavor of baked bread and honey, it is made with equal amounts of chardonnay and pinot noir.

Salon Cuvée S 1996 ($212): Minted from a Grand Cru vineyard in the highly regarded Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cuvée S (the house’s only wine) is a Blanc de Blanc with a fragrant nose of honeysuckle and orange blossom and a tantalizing flavor of white chocolate, mineral and slate. It is excellent for aging.

Charles Heidseik Champagne Charlie 1985 ($125): Though not usually anyone’s top choice, this cuvée should be. Its full, round, yeasty nose, with elements of apple and nuts, owes to its 15 years on the lees before disgorgement. The complex flavor from Grand Cru grapes (55 percent pinot noir, 45 percent chardonnay) offers a persistent finish.