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Best Practices: Property
Château Ambitions
Bryant Urstadt
11/01/2004

A partner at a wall street investment bank purchased a château in Provence in the summer of 2000, a year after first laying eyes on it. “I absolutely fell in love with the home, with the region, with the whole French lifestyle,” he says.

It was an easy place to fall in love with. The château, erected in the 18th century, is listed on the French register of historic places. Built of a gold-colored stone from nearby Avignon, it has pale-blue shutters flanking tall windows. The château is set on 17 acres of wooded parkland surrounded by formal gardens, a moat filled with Japanese carp and a variety of orchards, including apple, pear, quince, plum and nectarine trees. Visitors approach through a wrought iron gate, down a magnificent lane of mature trees. Inside, in 8,500 square feet of living space, there are nine guest bedrooms and a wine cellar with bottles of almost every vintage from 1910 through the present. There is a full-time staff of four, including a chef who can cook well enough to live up to those wines, and who draws many of his raw ingredients—including olives and poultry—from the farm.

TOP VIEW
A château in the French countryside can furnish an idyllic retreat from the stresses of modern life. When mulling over a purchase, we should decide whether we want:

• A property that is listed as a historic site;

• To maintain a business, usually a vineyard, on the property;

• To defray costs by renting the château out for events when we are elsewhere;

• To establish residency (and therefore be subject to French income tax).
When the owner, an Englishman based in Asia, hinted he might be selling, the banker jumped at the chance to own a piece of such a property, and convinced him to take on a partner instead. “I didn’t have the time to run it myself, but I didn’t want to lose it either. I told him we absolutely had to work something out, and we did,” he says. The banker now spends a few weeks at his château at the end of every summer, and pops over when he can get away from his high-pressure job. The château is 20 minutes from the airport in Avignon, which makes a visit over a long weekend workable by either commercial or private plane. His room is always ready, and there are spare clothes in the drawer. “It feels like home,” he says.

The dream of owning a château in France is intoxicating to many—the stuff of romantic novels, coffee table books, even lavish period films—and the reasons for buying a château are as various as the buyers. Some are looking to move to France. Jean-Pierre Orhant, who has been brokering luxury property in France for 20 years, recently found a château for a well-known American musician. “When I asked him why he wanted to move to France,” says Orhant, “his first answer was, ‘From time to time I like to eat really good tomatoes.’” Tomatoes aside, he also wanted to raise his children abroad, in a culture which matched his personal values, and in a home with some privacy. He paid about $1 million for a château, and his former residence in California is now his second home.

Château Ideal
No matter what the motivation, the process of moving from dream to reality is easier if we have a clear idea of what we want. The prepared purchaser has already answered a number of important questions: What exactly do we mean by “château”? Will we run the château as a business (say, a vineyard) or use it solely as a home? Which region suits our goals? It is useful, as well, to understand the peculiar legal and financial exigencies of owning a true piece of history.

“Château” is a broad word to a French real estate agent, encompassing everything from a squat medieval castle set within a city or village, with slits for windows and walls of stone 6-feet thick, to a manor house that would not look out of place in Greenwich, Conn., to a vineyard with a modest and hardly regal residence attached. What Americans usually consider a typical château will usually include a fair-size plot of tended land with gardens, though what remains may be just a portion of the original holdings. Most were built between the late 17th century, when family homes no longer needed to be fortified, and the end of the 19th century.

Another aspect to consider is whether or not to purchase a listed property, one which is on the French register of historic places. Listed properties command a premium, but restrictions on renovations are tight, and maintenance standards are strict. It may happen that only part of a château might be listed, just the roof, for example, or perhaps only the stables. Owning a partially or fully listed property has advantages in intangible aspects: Most are historically significant, and many have played some role in French history.

Whether to run the château as a business or keep it solely as a home is an important question. The château with the high-end vineyard, for instance, may be a dream of many, but having a large-scale agricultural operation on the property can certainly change its feel. Orhant has a line on a vineyard in Bordeaux, a Grand Cru label in St. Emilion, offered for $10 million. “There’s prestige in owning a place like that, and it can make business sense, but it’s not going to be fun if you’re not absolutely crazy about wine.” The value of the vineyard will likely be greater than that of the home. However, to prospective owners who are crazy about wine, the vineyard may resemble their ideal of heaven.
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