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Passion Investments: Antiques
Undiscovered Country
Marisa Bartolucci
11/01/2004

Indigo rags were rarely woven into sakiori rugs; they were reserved instead for work clothes, which tradition dictated be modest in hue. Fishermen especially favored the material for their hanten because it was water-resistant. Szczepanek offers a pristine fisherman’s hanten from the early 20th century for $1,800; Kahlenberg is selling a late 19th-century work kimono with an unusual light indigo, pink and white weave for $5,000. But floor coverings can be even more valuable, owing to their rarity. Colored rags—oranges, pinks, reds, browns and greens—were woven into irregularly striped blankets and rugs, creating designs that possess the vibrant exuberance of an abstract painting. Unblemished sakiori rugs can run from $1,000 to $10,000, depending on the size. Noriko Miyamoto of Miyamoto Japanese Antiques in Sag Harbor, N.Y., is one of the best-known dealers in these pieces. She sells rugs from the early 1900s that are about 5 feet by 5 feet for $1,200.

While some collectors focus on these recycled forms of Mingei textiles, others expand into its elaborately dyed fabrics. These were used to fashion the garments and furnishings of the rural middle and upper classes. There is, for example, shiburi, which refers to a variety of resist-dyeing techniques involving the binding or clamping of fabric, such as tie-dye and kasuri, to create elaborate repeat patterns. Shiburi flourished in the late Edo and Meiji periods. Trading was lively, leading to expanded visual communication within Japan and with the West. Dyeing motifs were copied and adapted. Fabrics sumptuously patterned with katazome, a form of stenciling, even influenced the textile designs of the Weiner Werkstatte.

Collectors also treasure tsutsugaki, “tube drawing,” a freehand style of dyeing that allowed detailed, occasionally multicolored scenes and symbols. A  bride’s trousseau typically included a futonji embellished in this fashion. Szczepanek offers an extraordinary tsutsugaki from the late 19th century, with a rare ceremonial design of cranes, plum blossoms, pines and bamboo, for $4,000.

When Cynthia Shaver first started dealing in Mingei textiles 26 years ago, there were, she says, “about two books on the subject. Now you go into a museum book shop and there is a whole section.” While she is gratified that more people have become aficionados, she complains that it has become increasingly difficult to discover exceptional pieces. Kahlenberg possesses a more philosophical view. Now that prices are rising, she believes early collectors will start selling, sending wonderful pieces back into the market. For the time being, Kahlenberg suggests that we pounce when we find something desirable. But we must always pay attention to quality and authenticity. Fifi White, a trailblazing collector of Mingei textiles—her collection now belongs to the Seattle Museum of Art—is now a dealer through her company, Asiatica, which is based in Kansas City, Mo. White warns: “You have to be careful that the work you buy hasn’t been recently recycled.”
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