Arzu now employs 250 weavers, and, to date, the company has
sold 330 rugs. Duckworth has calculated that Arzu must sell 1,200 rugs annually,
at costs ranging from $400 to $16,200, to turn a profit. She predicts it will be
profitable by the middle of next year, while reminding customers and donors that
the venture is an experiment in social entrepreneurship rather than charity. "We
have a high-quality, beautiful, artisan craft that comes with a story of the
woman who made it," she says.
Duckworth pays her weavers 50 percent more than the going rate.
Arzu’s wages vary widely based on the type of rug, but, for example, a weaver in
Shash Pul will earn $60 per square meter, while the market standard is $40. In
return for the extra money, she requires weavers to take literacy classes and
send their children to school.
Fortunately for Duckworth, most of the rural villages that
maintain historic weaving cultures are outside areas where the Taliban is
dominant, in the relatively safe provinces of Kabul, Andkoi and Bamyan.
Nevertheless, when she or her Afghanistan staff travel to visit the weavers,
they worry about highway bandits and land mines, as well as the safety of
weavers who might incur local wrath because they work with a foreign
organization. "We try to stay under the radar," Duckworth says. "There are still
areas where schools are under attack." In some communities, she must work with
local organizations and village elders to assess the possibility of her weavers
being able to send their children to school at all.
"I’d never been in a helicopter before, and I’m sitting in an open sling with a guy next to me in full body armor holding a machine gun. It’s so fascinating, you kind of forget about fear. You get caught up in the
moment." | Other Afghanistan-based philanthropic entrepreneurs say that
Duckworth has chosen her areas of operation wisely. In the Kandahar region,
where Sarah Chayes recently founded Aghand, a company selling skin-care products
using locally raised almonds, pomegranates and roses, obstacles to educating and
employing females are significantly worse.
"In the south, after a high-water mark during the six months to
a year after the fall of the Taliban, the ability of women and girls to gain
education is being curtailed every day," says Chayes, a former NPR correspondent
who has been living in Afghanistan since 2001. "It does not take much in the way
of a threat to dissuade people from any behavior that might stand out. Threat
letters induce whole neighborhoods to take their girls out of school."
Cultural Currency The first rugs Duckworth commissioned did not meet her
standards. She uses them as doormats in her home in Chicago, which features four
Arzu rugs and a lapis box that was a gift from Karzai. Hiring is difficult; she
had to fire her first employee in Kabul because of fiscal irregularities. The
weavers do not have bank accounts, so Duckworth must pay them via the
centuries-old hawala system, which channels funds through village middlemen known as
hawaladars,
in whom their neighbors place their financial fortunes. Duckworth’s staff gives
wages to a hawaladar, "and our people get the money from one of his guys," she
says. "We keep three pairs of eyes on every dollar and have developed very
careful monitoring from the beginning."
Her Afghani employees register each weaver, and conduct
follow-up interviews every six months, asking what the women have done with the
money and how their life is different. Some of the weavers and their families
have been able to pay off debts and buy food, clothing and fuel. In areas where
electricity is available, they have purchased radios and televisions that give
them a glimpse—the first glimpse for many—of the world beyond their
villages.
Duckworth is making her fourth journey to Afghanistan this
fall, and will participate in formal meetings with government ministers. She
will most likely sleep on the grounds of the U.S. Embassy in a hooch, a shipping
container that has been converted into a trailer home. "A number of people along
the way have said, ‘I don’t think you can do this.’ I think of it this way:
Doing something is better than doing nothing," she says.
Jackie Cooperman is a writer based in New York.
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